The Admiralty Chart of the Solway Firth marks several areas of ‘Changeable Depths’ – areas where the sea-bed moves around, sometimes forming channels, sometimes large sand-waves and shoals. But the Solway’s geological story has always been of changeable depths and malleable margins, as glaciers formed and melted, and sea-levels changed relative to the land.
You can see marks of earlier changes on the shores and estuarine banks of the rivers that feed into the Firth:
Section through the cliffs of glacial moraines, St Bees
Section through the cliffs of glacial moraines, St Bees
2 eroded dunes, beach sequence
2 eroded dunes, beach sequence
Dunes and the submerged forest, Beckfoot
Dunes and the submerged forest, Beckfoot
Submerged forest and peat
Submerged forest and peat
Submerged forest
Submerged forest
Peat overlying clay at Beckfoot
Peat overlying clay at Beckfoot
Piddocked peat from Haverigg (with thanks to Stephe for the image)
Piddocked peat from Haverigg (with thanks to Stephe for the image)
Clay is often associated with the peat on the shores: grey and slippery. But there is also red clay in other places too – as used to make the loom-stones and fishing-weights.
Clay has been a necessary building material around the Upper Solway, mixed with straw as the basis for building clay dabbins houses. For What’s a clay dabbin, see here.
Clay dabbin construction, lyers of straw and clay
Clay dabbin construction, lyers of straw and clay
Building the dabbin house at RSPB Campfield
Building the dabbin house at RSPB Campfield
The finished dabbin house with heather roof
The finished dabbin house with heather roof
More recent changes along the edges of coast are the result of industry, especially the former iron-works and steel-making on the Cumbrian side. The molten slag was poured onto the shores where it formed platforms and low cliffs; bubbly ‘floating stones’ and blue and moss-green slag pebbles are found washed up on many beaches. (For more on this see The Volcanoes of Workington here ).
Slag cliff at Workington
Slag cliff at Workington
Section through a slag ban on the shore
Section through a slag ban on the shore
A platform of slag on the shore
A platform of slag on the shore
Slag pebbles
Slag pebbles
'Floating stones' and blue and green pebbles of slag
'Floating stones' and blue and green pebbles of slag
For ships heading up the Solway, the changeable depths are a problem and especially in the days of sail, many ships were wrecked on the sandbanks. These days hydrographical surveyors check the topography and bathymetry of the seabed using advanced scanners and computer programmes to measure changes. Buoys mark the passage between Workington – where ships for Silloth take on a pilot – and Silloth. For more on this see Piloting a ship to Sillothhere. Ports such as Silloth, Workington and Maryport Marina are constantly at risk of silting up and need dredging or flushing out: there’s a video of a hydrographic survey (from a drone, in April 2020) of the Port Of Workington and the mouth of the R Derwent here.
'Changeable depths' and the route to Silloth
'Changeable depths' and the route to Silloth
New buoys on Silloth dock awaiting deployment
New buoys on Silloth dock awaiting deployment
3D charts of the seabed near Corner Buoy on the way to Silloth (thanks to Chris Heppenstall, ABP)
3D charts of the seabed near Corner Buoy on the way to Silloth (thanks to Chris Heppenstall, ABP)
The tug and pilot boat 'Derwent' at Workington
The tug and pilot boat 'Derwent' at Workington
Out on the Firth, the pilot transfers from Derwent to Zapadnyy
Out on the Firth, the pilot transfers from Derwent to Zapadnyy
Oops. An awkward entry, Marshall Dock, Silloth
Oops. An awkward entry, Marshall Dock, Silloth
Scot Pioneer passes from Marshall Dock to New Dock, Silloth (C) Andrew Lysser and Carrs, to whom thanks
Scot Pioneer passes from Marshall Dock to New Dock, Silloth (C) Andrew Lysser and Carrs, to whom thanks